Are you trying to decide on which type of filter to buy?
There are three main types of swimming pool filters, D.E. (which stands for Diatomaceous Earth) Sand and Cartridge pool filters. Different regions of the country seem to have different preferences; personally my order would have D.E. first, then Sand, then cartridge filters. However, the suitability of a filter to a pool can have more to do with size, than with type. Always go at least one size larger than you think you need. Buy the largest filter you can afford, it’s money well spent.
Even though I have just stated a preference of D.E. filters over Sand over Cartridge filters, I would rather have a large cartridge filter than a small D.E. filter. So remember, in pool filters, size matters! Many filters installed in the 70′s and 80′s were much too small for the size of pool they filter, and with the deterioration of age are just barely operating. Major manufacturers try really hard to produce no “junk.” So once again, filter size is more important than brand, name, type, color, etc.
Filter of choice for most spas, and many smaller above ground pools, the cartridge filter is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. The cartridge filter element, an aquatic version of the pleated air filter in your car, traps dirt and particles of 25 – 100 microns in size. The cartridge is removed from the tank and hosed thoroughly, top to bottom, with a high pressure hose to remove dirt when the pressure gauge rises 8 – 10 lbs. above its clean reading. I know some people that take their cartridges to the local self serve car wash place for cleaning, but too much pressure may damage the cartridge. Each time the cartridge filter element is cleaned, some of its filtering ability is reduced.
Today’s filter cartridges are made from spun polyester, and the brand Reemay is the brand of choice. Reemay is pleated and wrapped around a heavy plastic or pvc core that allows water to flow from the outside of the cartridge to the center core. Pool filter cartridges are bound on each end with a heavy type of rubbery plastic that is melted or fused to the ends of the rolled up pleats and the inner core. Unicel is a popular manufacturer of replacement cartridges for most of the pool equipment manufacturers. Other brands have gained some marketshare in recent years, notably Filbur and Pleatco. Pleatco has a unique core design, but they mostly use the same materials and methods in manufacture. OEM cartridges are also available, but be prepared to pay a premium for the brand name!
The cartridge should be replaced every 3 – 5 yrs, depending on the work it was asked to do. If the filter was a bit undersized, and had some algae every year and lots of tree debris, etc. then it may last only 1 – 2 years. Nicely sized cartridge filters can operate for 6 months between cleanings and get more than 5 yrs from the cartridges.
“How do I Backwash my Cartridge Filter?
A trick question. There is no backwash valve on a cartridge filter because today’s pool filter cartridges aren’t built for backwards flow. Instead, the pump is shut off, air bleeder opened to drain the tank, lid removed, cartridge(s) removed, hosed thoroughly top to bottom, and replaced. It’s a bit of a pain to do, but hopefully the filter is sized so that it’s a once or twice per year job. Another advantage is that cartridge cleaning doesn’t waste as much water as backwashing. Soaking the cartridge in a TSP (trisodium-phosphate) or similar solution prior to hosing will improve your cleaning. Do not use TSP if you utilize Baquacil or Soft Swim for sanitation.
Use of a clarifier or Chitin product like Sea-Klear is a great help to a cartridge filter. Some people also increase the filter efficacy by adding a small amount of synthetic filter aid powder (1 – 2 cups) through skimmer. D.E. powder is not recommended by most manufacturers, as it can clog the pores of the cartridge.
Poor water Quality?
If you have debris bypassing the filter cartridge, then dirt and particulate matter is probably also getting by the filter. Cartridge filters are designed to force the water through the pleats, and as we know, water will always take the path of least resistance. Make sure that all internal parts are in place, if any, and that the cartridge is properly seated in place when reinstalling. Poor sanitation, poor water balance, and pool circulation could be another cause, and it could have nothing to do with the filtering at all. It could also indicate a need to replace the cartridge, and as a filter ages, the length of time between necessary cleanings becomes shorter. Some filters are sized fine for good water conditions, and they do well when water conditions are good, but try to clean up an algae bloom or cloudy water and they struggle. If this is you, look at the size of your filter, it may be undersized. Bigger is better with pool filters (but not with pool pumps)!
How long should I run my Cartridge pool filter each day?
It Depends. Careful experimentation will show you when the water quality begins to suffer. Many people with smaller, older equipment (filter/ pump) run their systems 24 hours per day. The average (I would guess) would be about 16 hours. BUT! It depends on your system. Undersized? Old? High pool Use? Large Debris Load? Heavy Sunlight? Any of these factors call for extra filtering, and extra chemicals. If you’re too frugal with the electricity, or if you forget to turn the pump back on – you likely pay more in chemical costs.
Leaking Cartridge filter?
Most Cartridge. filters have a belly band clamp with a large O-ring between tank halves. The clamp band may be a spin off, no tools required type. The o-ring between the tank and the lid can become distended or flattened and may need to be replaced if water is dripping from the center clamp. Clean and Lubricate the o-ring annually, and always make sure to re-secure the lid properly after removing. Caution: Do Not remove the center clamp while the pump is running, and without first releasing pressure inside the tank.
Most cartridge filters have a drain, some smaller ones do not. You may experience leaking around the drain assembly, cap or plug. Teflon tape on the threads usually helps, and can also be used around the air bleeder / pressure gauge assembly to keep it from leaking.
The sand in a pool sand filter (#20 silica sand; 45 – 55 mm) is specially graded to trap particles in the 20 – 100 micron range. As a sand filter collects dirt, its efficiency increases, trapping more dirt. When your pressure gauge shows a reading 8 – 10 lbs. over the clean, start-up reading, it is time to backwash the captured dirt out of the filter.
Sand filters are known to be the lowest maintenance of the three types of pool filters. You may only need to open up the tank every 5 years or so. DE filters require removing the internal grid assembly at least annually to clean them well, and cartridge filters don’t backwash, you remove the cartridge and hose clean every so often, depending on the cartridge filter size. Sand filters are the easiest to operate and maintain.
“They say” that the sand inside a sand filter should be replaced after seven years. Gradual loss of efficiency may be hard to notice. If your sand filter requires frequent backwashing, every week or two, the sand bed may be “mudballed”, or it may be “channeled”. It may also “calcify” with calcium deposits. Other water balance problems may also contribute to pool filter sand deterioration, but a properly sized sand filter could go over 10 years between sand changes.
Use of Biguanide chemicals, i.e., Soft Swim or Baquacil require annual cleaning of the filter sand to prevent it from “gumming-up”. High amounts of bather oils can gum-up a sand bed. And just the years of a pump forcing water over the grains wears away the sharp edges of the sand. Such pool filter sand becomes more circular, and traps dirt less efficiently.
Remember that for sparkling water, we need the trio of sanitation, filtration and circulation. If one of these areas is lacking, the water won’t look so good. So, if you’ve kept very good chemical maintenance and your circulation is good, you may have a filter problem. Is the filter sized properly? Many filters of the 70’s – 80’s were grossly undersized, the trend now in pool filtration is “Go Big Early.” In ground pools should have a 3.1 sq ft sand filter or greater.
Adding a small amount of aluminum sulfate or “alum”, through the skimmer will form a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed, useful in cleaning up an undesirable water condition. You can also add a small amount of D.E. powder or other filter media.
“How and When do I Backwash my Sand Filter”
When the pressure gauge on your sand filter is reading 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash your sand filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt – Hence the name “back-washing.” Sand filters can have either a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multi-ports on the valve, usually 6 positions. Always shut off the filter pump before turning the filter valve.
01. FILTER: Keep it here all the time, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
02. RINSE: Use this setting for 15 seconds after backwashing to rinse the sand filter tank
03. RECIRCULATE: Use this if your filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating the water
04. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open and your backwash hose is rolled out
05. CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in the closed position
06. WASTE/DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this setting sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. This setting is used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste.
So, to backwash a sand filter with a multiport valve;
– Shut off the pump motor
– Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position
– Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves
– Open air bleeder assembly on top of sand filter, and turn pump on.
– Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly if the pressure gauge spikes or if the hose kinks up.
– Let the pump run for 2 – 3 minutes on BACKWASH or until water runs clear
– Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to RINSE position Run on rinse for 15 seconds.
– Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
– Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
– To Backwash a sand filter with a slide valve (push-pull valve);
– Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it)
– Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull / twist plunger upwards 2 – 3″ (PacFab valves are reverse)
– Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on
– Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 30 PSI) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly
– After hose fills with water, backwash your sand filter for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear
– Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position
– Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
A properly sized sand filter should, in most cases, be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashings. A “Filter Run” of less than 4 weeks may indicate sand problems (or sizing problems). It’s a good idea to mark the pressure gauge with “Clean” & “Dirty” marks, or write the numbers on the tank, i.e., 8/16 to serve as a reminder when you need to backwash your sand filter.
Filter Sand in the pool?
Bad news. If it hasn’t blown in, or been carried in on the feet of swimmers, it’s likely coming from the filter. A broken lateral or standpipe may be the cause. You’ll need to empty the tank, locate and make the repair, refill with fresh sand and test. If you have overfilled your sand filter, it is not uncommon to experience a small amount of “blow back” after backwashing. Continued sand leakage during filtration usually indicates a lateral breakage. Don’t confuse brown dust as sand particles.
In fact, it’s common to experience a small amount of dust blown back into the pool after backwashing a sand filter, even with rinsing first. If you see deposits of a dusty, sand colored material on the pool floor, hit it with you pool brush, if it becomes waterborne as a “poof” of dust, then sand it is not. If you have a problem with fine dust constantly passing through your sand filter, you can vacuum this out to waste after filling the pool first. If this problem continues, you may have sand bed problems, or a sand filter that is too small for the pump.
Filter Sand bed replacement:
To replace your filter sand, you’ll first need to empty out the existing sand in the tank. One method is to spread a tarp out beneath the filter drain assembly. Then remove the entire filter drain assembly, turn on the pump, and step back! The water pumping through the filter will remove most of the sand out the drain hole. Another method is to remove the drain plug only and allow the filter to drain for several hours or days. Then, remove the top dome or multiport valve from the top of the filter.
If you have the Triton style dome on the top of the filter, with a side mounted filter valve, you’ll need the octagonal dome wrench to remove the dome. If you don’t have a dome wrench, you can use a large strap wrench or in a pinch, a screwdriver and hammer. Once the dome is removed, gently twist the baffle/pipe out of the way so you can get a scoop to the sand.
If you have a Top Mount Multiport, you may need to cut some pipes to remove the valve. You can reconnect them later with pvc unions or couplings and some pvc glue. Once these pipes are cut, the clamp band connecting the valve to the filter is removed, or in the case of older sand filters, several bolts are removed, and the valve pulls straight up and off. You may need to use a little effort with prying and twisting to release the valve off of the standpipe and flange. Plug or tape or cover the standpipe so you don’t spill sand in it. Then you can use a shop vacuum to suck out the sand, or you can use a small cup to scoop out the sand.
Be very careful as you scoop or suck the sand out, not to knock or break the laterals at the bottom of the tank. They can be brittle when the get older, and it may be wise to replace laterals at the time you replace the filter sand. Once all of the sand is scooped out, use a hose to wash out the sand beneath the laterals. When the tank is empty of sand, replace the drain assembly, using silicone sealant on the threads. Then add enough water to cover the laterals, so the new sand pouring in won’t crack them. Again, if you have the top mounted multiport, cover the standpipe opening. If you have a side mounted filter valve, gently push the intake baffle to one side, or wrap the baffle with a small plastic bag to keep the sand from entering the pipe as you pour it in.
Pour the new filter sand in! Use only specially graded pool filter sand; #20 silica sand, 45 – 55 mm. On top mounted multiport filters, use care to keep the lateral/ hub assembly positioned in the center, and on the bottom of the tank. After each bag of sand is added, make sure it is still centered. It may be useful to have a helper hold the standpipe in place while the sand is added.
The best method is to lift the sand bag up onto the tank, and use a razor knife to cut from the bottom-belly of the bag. Keep care not to breathe in the silica dust while pouring, and on older fiberglass sand filter tanks, wear long sleeves to keep from getting “fiber-rash”.
Add the recommended amount of sand only; more is not better! If you don’t know this info, contact your dealer or manufacturer. We have the information on most of the sand filters we sell. Most tanks are filled only about 2/3 of the way full, to leave enough “freeboard” space on top. When full, clean and lube o-rings and reassemble filter top, making sure to use a brush to remove small sand grains. Make sure filter lid is very secure, lids that blow off can be very dangerous. It’s a good idea to replace the o-ring on the filter domes, if it is distended or dry-rotted.
When the filter is started up, start up on “RINSE” setting first (if you have a multiport valve). Then backwash and rinse again. If you have a push-pull valve, backwash first. This final step will prevent putting a lot of “sand dust” into the pool after a sand change. Note your new pressure, it usually will be less than before the sand change.
Leaking sand filter?
Sand filter tanks rarely leak themselves, however leaks often occur in and around the multiport interface. A common complaint is that water is leaking out of the backwash port of the multiport (six position) valve. If your sand filter tank is leaking, or has small cracks in it, replace it immediately. There is no safe, effective means to patch a sand filter tank.
Sand filters can leak from the drain assembly. Try to determine if the leak is from the assembly that is screwed into the body of the tank, or if it is the cap or plug that is leaking. Some sand filter drain plugs have small o-rings or gaskets that need periodic replacement.
You may have a push-pull valve, or slide valve as it is sometimes called, instead of a multiport valve. Leaks can occur through the top of the index plate, or out of the backwash line. This is a easy inspection to determine what o-rings need to be replaced on the plunger.
Leaks can also occur at the bulkhead unions where the valve attaches to the side of the filter. The bulkhead assembly itself may have loosened. This repair is usually more complicated, as you may need to access the bulkhead from both sides of the filter tank.
Leaking Multiport valve repair:
Is water leaking out of the backwash port of the multiport valve? Slight adjustments of the handle may temporarily solve this problem. A more permanent repair may necessitate replacement of the spider gasket inside of the multiport. You may also have leakage up around the middle of the handle on the valve, which external adjustments rarely fix. This usually requires replacement of a Teflon washer and sometimes the spring as well.
The D.E. filter is the most efficient type of pool filter on the market. It can trap particles down to 3 – 5 microns; well below what the naked eye can see. DE filters, like most pool filters, use a pressure gauge toindicate a need for backwashing when it reads 8 – 10 lbs. higher than its clean reading. After backwashing a D.E. filter, a new application of D.E. filter powder is added to the filter by pouring into the skimmer. An annual breakdown of the filter is necessary to thoroughly clean D.E. filter grids.
The Powder is what does the filtering. A D.E. filter requires that the operator (you) add D.E. powder to coat the filter grids inside of the filter tank. This widely available, inexpensive powder is actually the microscopic skeletons of Diatoms, an ancient, sub aquatic creature. Under the microscope, these skeletons appear to be tiny sponges. This is where the dirt gets trapped in your filter. The powder, which is added at your skimmer, dissolves in the pipe on its way to the filter tank. When it reaches the grids, which are covered with a nylon type of fabric, the powder stops, coating the grid. DE Grids are also called Elements or Septums. The water continues to pass through, first through the powder, then the fabric covered grid. As the water passes through the D.E. and enters the grid it leaves the dirt, trapped in the D.E. powder “cake” or coating. The powder is the filter.
The D.E. powder is what filters your pool water in a D.E. filter. Do not operate your pump without having the D.E. powder coating the grids, or you will see your pressure rise very quickly, and if justify in this manner the grids could become damaged. As the pressure gauge on a D.E. filter increases, flow rate decreases. Eventually the flow rate will allow the water quality to suffer. You will need to backwash the filter to remove the D.E. that is clogged up with the dirt.
After backwashing thoroughly, add new D.E. powder to the filter through the skimmer. If using biguanides (Soft Swim or Baquacil) you will need twice annual, very thorough cleaning to prevent it from gumming up. All D.E. filters should have this done at least once per year. Thorough cleaning is accomplished by turning the pump off and draining the filter. Remove the tank top half, and remove the grid assembly. Hose the grid assembly thoroughly. If you want to do an extra good job, after hosing, soak the assembly in a trash can filled with water and a filter cleaner product. (or use TSP {trisodium-phosphate} from the hardware store). Rinse thoroughly before reinstalling grids into tank.
While cleaning the DE grids, it’s good to inspect them for tears and holes. Holes in your DE grids larger than 1/2 inch will need to be sewn, or replaced. Inspect also for mis aligned grids, and correct, and check that the through bolts are tightly secured so that the assembly is drawn close and the grids are snug into the top manifold and the bottom spreader plate.
When backwashing a D.E. filter, bump the filter several times. That is, backwash until water runs clear, move the multiport valve to FILTER and run it on filter for a 5 – 10 seconds, and backwash again until it runs clear, etc…do this 2 – 4 times. Remember to always shut off the pump before turning your multiport valve or your push-pull valve. Each time you go through the cycle of filter/ backwash/ filter, you will get more dirt/ D.E. out of the filter, giving you a better, more thorough backwash.
Be cautious not to pump DE waste water directly into streams as it may choke small aquatic life. Your city or town may have discharge regulations for DE powder.
If you are using a separation tank for backwashing, or a separate tank that separates the DE from the waste water, and returns clean water to the pool (prevents water wasting) – it is especially recommended to bump the filter as described above, and run your backwash cycle for a longer time period, maybe 10 minutes. Using a sep tank may also require more frequent manual cleaning of the DE grids, because the backpressure reduces the overall flowrate during backwashing.
Also important in ensuring an effective backwashing is to make sure skimmer baskets and pump baskets are clean to allow for full flow entering the filter.
How do I Backwash my DE Filter?
When the pressure gauge is reading 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash the filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt. Hence the name “back-washing.” DE filters can have either a push-pull valve (also known as slide valves) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multi-ports on the valve, usually 6 positions:
01. FILTER: Keep it here most of the time, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
02. RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank
03. RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating your pool.
04. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out
05. CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position
06. WASTE/ DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this one sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. Used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste
So, to backwash a D.E. filter with a multiport valve;
– Shut off pump motor
– Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position
– Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves
– Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on.
– Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly
– After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear
– Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to RINSE position. Run on rinse for 5 – 10 seconds. Shut off pump again, and move handle back to BACKWASH. Turn on pump again until water runs clear. – Continue in this fashion 3 – 4 times, alternating between Backwash & Rinse, to ensure a thorough backwash.
– Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
– Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
– Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank
To Backwash a DE filter with a slide valve:
– Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it)
– Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull/ twist plunger upwards 2 – 3″
– Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on
– Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 40 PSI) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly.
– After hose fills with water, run for 1 – 2 minutes or until water runs clear. Shut off and push handle back down. Turn pump on and run in filter position for 15 seconds and then shut pump off and backwash again for 1 min. Filter again for 15 seconds and another 30 second backwash.
– Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position
– Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
– Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank.
A properly sized D.E. filter should, in most cases, be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashings. A “Filter Run” of less than 4 weeks may indicate grid problems (or sizing problems). Filter grid fabric can become clogged with Calcium deposits or oils. After removing the grids from the assembly, you can soak in TSP (trisodium-phosphate) and warm water to remove oily deposits. If you have high levels of calcium or other minerals in your pool water you can soak the grids in a 10% muriatic acid solution for a few minutes followed by a full rinse. TSP soak and Rinse will remove mineral deposits such as Calcium.
D.E. powder in the pool?
You either have holes in the fabric of the grids, or a crack in the manifold that the grids attach to. It can also mean a broken air bleeder tube or assembly. Finally, D.E. in the pool can mean that the multiport or push-pull valve is allowing powder to bypass the filter. You will notice this most when adding new D.E. powder after backwashing, but you can test this at any time. The best method to determine the cause is to remove the grids and clean/ inspect thoroughly.
Filter Grid replacement:
Grids and manifolds vary by manufacturer, and by size. DE grids are usually $15-25 per grid; and you may expect to pay $75-100 for a manifold. Labor is usually under one hour. You can buy the entire set of 8 grids for a lower price usually, and many times it is best to replace all grids at one time. When replacing all the grids, do it upside down, with the manifold on the ground, and then work the bottom spreader plate on the top, spacing all grids correctly. If handy with an awl, torn grids can be sewn instead of replaced.
Poor water Quality?
It could be a problem with your multiport or push-pull valve. The valve could be allowing water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. Perhaps you are not running the filter long enough. Perhaps there is not enough D.E. powder in the filter, or too much DE powder. You may also need to backwash the filter or remove the grids and clean them manually. Poor sanitation, poor water balance, and pool circulation could be another cause, and it could have nothing to do with the filtering at all.
How long should I run my DE pool filter each day?
Well, just as much as you need. Careful experimentation will show you when the water quality begins to suffer. Many people with smaller, older equipment (filter/ pump) run their systems 24 hours per day. The average (I would guess) would be about 16 hours. BUT! It depends on your system. Undersized? Old? High pool Use? Large Debris Load? Heavy Sunlight? Any of these factors call for extra filtering. If you’re too frugal with the electricity, you may have to pay more in chemical costs.
Leaking DE filter?
Most D.E. filters have a belly band clamp with a large O-ring between tank halves. The o-ring can become distended or flattened and may need to be replaced if water is dripping from the center clamp. Caution: Do Not remove the center clamp while the pump is running, and without first releasing pressure inside the tank. You may notice your multiport valve leaking in one or more areas. See sand filter info on previous page. If your push-pull valve is leaking out of the backwash port (where the hose attaches), the plunger either needs replacement, or a new set of o-rings.
If your DE filter tank is leaking, and not from the belly band, bulkhead fittings or air bleed assembly, but in the tank itself, through a pinhole or crack, replace the tank half or entire filter immediately. There is no safe and effective way to repair tank damage.
Swimming Pool Filter Suppliers and Models:
Hayward Perflex Filter
Hayward Perflex Extended-Cycle Filter
Hayward Pro Series Plus Filter
Hayward Pro Series Side-Mount Filter
Hayward Pro Series Top-Mount Filter
Hayward Pro-Grid Filter
Hayward Pro-Grid Vertical Grid
Hayward S200 Series Filter
Hayward Star-Clear Filters
Hayward Star-Clear Plus Filters
Hayward SwimClear Filters
Jandy CL Cartridge Filter
Jandy CS Cartridge Filter
Jandy CV Cartridge Filter
Jandy DEV Diatomaceous Earth Filter
Jandy JS Side Mount Filter
Jandy SFTM Top Mount Sand Filter
Pentair Clean & Clear Filters
Pentair Clean & Clear Plus Filters
Pentair Clean & Clear RP Filters
Pentair Dynamic Series Filters
Pentair Posi-Clear Filters PXC Series
Pentair Posi-Clear RP Cartridge Filter
Pentair System:2 Modular Media Filters PLM Series
Pentair System:3 Modular Media Filters SM Series